American alpinist dies on Himalayan summit

American alpinist Mike Gardner, who was with his climbing partner Sam Hennessey, has died in an accident on Jannu East in the Himalayas. Gardner was a second-generation mountain guide with at least a dozen ascents of Denali and over 150 of Grand Teton.

According to Alpine Mag, Hennessey was able to descend along with another group of mountaineers consisting of Benjamin Vedrines, Leo Billon and Nicolas Jean. Vedrine's team was rappelling down after turning around before the summit when they encountered Hennessey, who explained that Gardner had fallen. They couldn't find Gardner.

Hennessey received the American Alpine Club's Cutting Edge Award earlier this year for the Jannu East expedition. The awards page stated: “Sam Hennessey will receive $4,500 for attempting the North Face of Jannu East, an alpine big wall that rises over 8,000 feet (2,400 m) from the Schrund to the summit.” It was only attempted twice ( by Hennessey’s team), and the summit has not been climbed by any route.”

Among their many climbs together, Gardner and Hennessey achieved the second ascent of the Light Traveler on Denali (VI M7 WI6, 3,000 meters) – read more about it here. “I don't have a really clear, well-thought-out answer… why I go to the mountains when there is so much suffering and tragedy for me there,” he said on an Alpinist podcast, “but there is so much joy and…” The The answer lies somewhere in the middle of these paradoxes.”

Mike Gardner profile

Our deepest condolences go out to Gardner's family and friends.